A Quick Pedal Around the 12 Parish Churches of Jersey
Jersey is one of The Channel Islands. It is 9 miles by 5. It is divided into 12 Church Of England Parishes and each one of these has its own special church. This is a short story about using a bicycle to visit each one of them!
This is how I did it:
I started from the North East of the island in the picturesque Rozel Bay (“Row — Zell Bay”). Here I was in the parish of St Martin and under a 10 minute cycle from the parish church.
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I (wisely) decided to go clockwise, planning (wisely) to have breakfast at Gorey. A castle visit here is great fun, even for those adults not attired in the knights’ or princesses’ costumes that are freely available from the dress-up shop on entrance. Now head South — but be warned! This area is barren for decent boozers, and so an ideal morning route.
Grouville, St Saviour and St Clement are your targets and they are reasonably close together, so use your wits to get around these. St Clement stands out for its frescos! St Saviour stands out for its prettiness.
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Next you have the “pleasure” of St Helier (and you don’t need to climb Fort Regent to get there — take the cycle path around it, found at the start of the climb — I figured this out on my final day on the island). The church is just by The Royal Square which is where Bergerac initially featured “The Bureau des Étrangers”. Prior to land reclamation, boats were actually moored to the church’s perimeter walls, but now it’s only bikes. The only decent boozer I found in St Helier was The Lamplighter.
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The cycle-motorway to St Aubins (pronounced “St O — bins” — spoken incorrectly even on Bergerac) bay is flat and gentle and is a clear run West but you do need to take in St Lawrence — the most central of the churches. On your way up take the wonderful Les Chemin des Moulins, which is to the East of the church, then brave the main road back down to your goal, enjoy it, then continue South to return to the extraordinarily pleasurable coastal pedal to St Aubins (“St O — bins!”).
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The Old Courthouse is at the far side of this stretch (The Royal Barge to some of you) and serves great food and beer. There are plenty of other fine looking options on your way to this landmark if you prefer — but you have to reach it, as here is the first exciting challenge of the cycle!
Follow the little road up — all the way. It is steep, but charming. Don’t worry — the hill does have a top, and you can do it without stopping. At the summit, catch your breath and continue to the end of the road where you turn left and then the first right, heading to Ouaisne Bay. Glide down to the beach. The Old Smugglers Inn should be open, and if the tide is in and you can’t walk across to St Brelades yet, grab a pint. If the tide is in and you can’t wait you can always walk over the headland — just don’t take the main road over.
St Brelades beach is glorious! The church here is at the far end of it. Do stop somewhere on your way for a libation — I found the islands best coffee here. Once there, marvel the unique rough cut-stone roof, the historic escape route to the sea, The Fisherman’s Chapel (with frescos) and make a mental note to watch the 1st ever episode of Bergerac, which prominently features this church.
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We now head North towards some of the islands biggest distractions from this tour, which will take a lot of your energy.
From St Brelades it’s a really quick pedal to St Peter by the main road, but for those with the energy, take the cycle route to Corbiere lighthouse and follow cycle root #1 into St Ouins (“Ouins” — like “Swan”, but with a silent “S”) bay. From mid way up this amazing coastline you can cut East and find your church.
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The quickest route to St Ouin, again, is the main road. However, you could retrace your pedals and go back to St Ouins bay to continue to the far, far end, where you’ll find Faulkner Fisheries and the best crab sandwiches and b-b-qued fish you’ll ever experience (they also sell some marvellously fresh wines by the glass here). A fantastic hill is between you and the Parish of St Ouins church — fantastic! I found this church the hardest to find but enjoyed a little picnic here once I did as it’s by far the most secluded.
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Resisting the shortest path, go down to Grève de Lecq bay where another favourite pub of Bergerac can be found — Le Moulin de Lecq, and it is one of the islands most unique. Up and down any northern bay does take a lot of energy so best have a couple here. After the accent you’re in St Mary.
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On the way to St John I was distracted this time by “The Devils Hole”. If you are also, don’t do as I did and take your bicycle with you along the (initially flat) footpath — Bergerac cleared up all crime in Jersey in the 80’s and you can safely leave your cycle at the top.
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There are now 2 main distractions between you and your goal — the bays of Bonne Nuit and Bouley. Both are spectacular but only the latter serves you food and beer; the climbs from both are challenging and highly recommended.
Once you’ve either done these or wimped out you will be in Trinity — the last church!
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Top stuff; well done — Congratulations!
